Sailing South – An Antarctic Journey

Sailing South

Shortly after setting sail, we sat through some mandatory safety procedure meetings – a very necessary part of the journey. Once those were completed, they kept the schedule light in case of sea sickness and we pretty much just had free time to do whatever we pleased. We had access to a ton of movies, board games, and books scattered throughout the ship to keep us entertained.

My go to setup was in the conference room as there were super comfy chairs and a nice open place to work. It also had a welcoming atmosphere where others could come and go as they please which added the benefit of being able to casually chat with my new coworkers as they filtered on through. To avoid going stir crazy, every few hours I would make my way to the outside decks to stretch my legs and get fresh air.

Throughout the day we were served a three square meals – the normal breakfast, lunch and dinner. At home I usually only eat two meals max so I thought I’d continue the same while on the ship but that quickly changed. I was actually surprised how hungry I’d get at meal time. I don’t know for sure but I’m guessing this is due to all the micro-movements and stabilization you’re making throughout the day to counteract the movement of the ship.

The first day and a half we were sailing for a pilot in addition to our captain and crew. When I was told this, I really had no idea what a pilot did on a ship, but I learned that they are highly trained experts for specific ports and work with vessels to ensure safe navigation through hazardous local waters. These pilots act as essential advisors for guiding massive ships through narrow channels where there are high risks involved. So our pilot’s duty was to guide us through the narrow Strait of Magellan. The pilot would then be picked up by a small ship before we entered into the Drake Passage Way. And even though the Drake is known for having the roughest seas in the world, a pilot isn’t necessary since it’s the wide open ocean.

So late in the evening on that second day, a small boat with the word “PILOT” written on the side in large font, braved the brisk waters and came bustling towards us. A few of us waited outside on the deck in anticipation. Without hesitation and in the smoothest motion possible, the little boat came right up to our ship and quickly secured themselves to our side. Within seconds, the pilot then scurried across and headed straight for the bridge of the tiny ship. And just as quick as they came, they detached from our ship and zoomed off into the distance – we did, however, manage to secure a few waves from the crewman before they were out of sight!

Shortly after, I took one last lap on the outside deck and viewed out at the earth around me. This would be the last bit of land I’d see for the next two days. Once it was out of view, I made my way down to the galley for dinner.

As we headed into the drake, an announcement came on the all call – the bridge and crows nest were now opened up to the passengers. The bridge of a ship is where all the navigation happens with the captain and co-captain while the crows nest is at the very top with 360 views and a captain’s chair. We had to get premission from the captain before going up but we were all very lucky that they opened this area up for us. My first time visiting the crows nest, it was dark outside but a little beacon of light from the ship illuminated the waters below. I took it all in before heading back down for the evening, but I had a good feeling that I’d be spending a lot of time up there.

The next morning after breakfast, I made my way up to the crows next with my morning coffee. The great view was paired with a warm and quite atmosphere and nothing but the open seas before me. This became my morning ritual for the rest of the voyage.

The second and third day, the seas began to feel a lot rougher. Some people began to drop with seasickness. I luckily was not one of them. One time as I was sitting in the conference room, I looked up and everything was moving. The books on the shelf were jostling back and forth at a medium but steady pace. The rocking felt dramatic to almost haunting point where it didn’t seem real. I had to stop working on my laptop and focus on something else. I switched to the other side of the table to keep the bookshelf behind me and began playing cards instead to keep my mind off the movement.

At this point of the journey, when I walked outside, I kept to the higher levels of the ship. From above I would watch a large wave crash onto the bow of the ship. The water wouldn’t last long before draining away and another would come crashing on down. The cold air was brisk on my face. I was fully bundled up with two sweaters and sporting the heavy coat they issued us as extreme cold weather gear back in Punta Arenas. Thoughts of how the heck am I going to make it Antarctica for the next 7 months crossed my mind as I stood there shivering.

In the morning of the last day at sea, the whole ship was excited. Not only to get to station but also the weather and the waters were nice enough to voyage through the Neumayer Channel – essentially we get to take the scenic way! And man, I was just grateful to see some land after having nothing but the ocean open in front of us for days that seemed to just blur together.

When land was in sight we all went outside and were greeted by snowy mountain tops and icebergs galore. In the beginning there was a low cloud ceiling which made for an eerie yet beautiful scene. This moodiness only lasted for a little while and eventually the sky cleared revealing wonderful views all around us. I looked down at the water and saw my first raft of penguins! (A raft is the term for a group of swimming penguins!)

We turned the corned and Palmer Station was in sight! As we sailed closer, I saw another batch of penguins but this time hanging out on land on a small local island. All tensions eased in me and all I could think was I think I’m gonna like it here.

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